Design Creations Photo Gallery

Projects, products and stuff DC has created.

     
 
  • Harry Potter Cauldron

    Thursday 23 May 2024

    3 photos

  • Robots

    from Tuesday 16 January to Sunday 17 March 2024

    12 photos

  • "F" Bomb

    from Wednesday 8 to Thursday 16 November 2023

    9 photos

  • Functional Stuff

    from Tuesday 5 December 2023 to Tuesday 16 January 2024

    5 photos

  • CinderWing's Dragons and Creatures

    from Monday 12 June 2023 to Wednesday 28 February 2024

    69 photos

  • 3D PRNS Worker and Accessories

    from Monday 4 to Sunday 17 March 2024

    7 photos

  • Star Trek Voyager TriCorder

    3 photos

    It was a pretty easy print. The layer lines are a bit rough; I don't think I was paying attention when I sliced it and accidentally set it at my default 0.28mm for my "structural" and household prints, instead of the finer 0.20mm. But hey, it works. ;-) I printed the hollow version to allow for the future inclusion of electronics and LEDs. My plan involves using an Arduino Nano BLE 33 and some small flat LED diodes. The Nano 33 will enable me to power the Nano and LEDs with a couple of AAAA or 2032 batteries. I'll need to drill a few holes in the hinge area for wire pass-through into each section, which isn't a big issue. However, this could be a future improvement suggestion for the creator. This modification can also be achieved with almost all slicers out there, by using a negative cylinder part modifier. For the graphics, I used my Cricut Explore Air 2 and Cricut Design Space. As I mentioned in an earlier comment, the graphic should be 65mm in width, which fits perfectly. I used plain paper and covered the paper with some clear SLA UV resin cured with a UV flashlight. Protects the paper yet still allows the LEDs to shine through. However, for durability, you can use clear adhesive labels suitable for laser printers and then adhere them to a thin plastic sheet, which can be cut by the Cricut. My Cricut project can be found here: [Cricut Design Project](https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/657c94512357c440b79a19e3) For the electronics, I plan on using the following components: - Arduino Nano 33 BLE: [AliExpress Link](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805931036112.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.428738daFfB6dQ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa) - Various colored LEDs: [AliExpress Link](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832633262678.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.428738daFfB6dQ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa) - AAAA Batteries: [Amazon Link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UUMQKW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) (Yes, four A's! They are smaller than AAA but still 1.5V) I used tree supports, so the interior is rough, but they were easy to remove! I aslo used BambuLabs breakaway support filament for PLA making removal even easier. I was having trouble with the provided printed hinges. I used some metal hinges I had for my laser cut boxes and the flat portion of the printed hinges as spaces to get a good fit for the small metal hingegs. I would reccommend getting some metal hinges if you want to be able to handle or use the TriCorder as a Prop for CosPlay.

  • Mana Skull

    1 photo

    I saw this and just thought it was too cool to pass up. Some White Marble PLA, a couple of blue LEDs, a couple of resistors, an Arduino nano and a cheap 5v usb nano humidifier board. Solder a few wires, add some water and power and reap the mana! https://photos.app.goo.gl/5dzB9YqiEefAABSq6 I used the white marble since it was what I had readily avaiable at the moment. Stocks are low right now in the workshop. Been a printing fool all summber long. ;-) This is the Arduino code for the Nano board controlling the LEDs and providing power for the humidifier board as well. int ledPin1 = 9; // First PWM-capable pin for the first LED int ledPin2 = 10; // Second PWM-capable pin for the second LED unsigned long previousMillis = 0; const long interval = 10; // Interval for updates void setup() { pinMode(ledPin1, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin2, OUTPUT); } void loop() { unsigned long currentMillis = millis(); if (currentMillis - previousMillis >= interval) { previousMillis = currentMillis; // Calculate the brightness for the first LED float brightness1 = (sin(currentMillis * 0.0006 * PI) + 1.0) / 2.0; brightness1 = brightness1 * 0.4 + 0.2; int analogValue1 = int(brightness1 * 255); analogWrite(ledPin1, analogValue1); // Calculate the brightness for the second LED // If you want the second LED to fade in sync with the first, use the same calculation // If you want it to be offset, you can add a phase shift to the sine function float brightness2 = (sin((currentMillis * 0.0006 * PI) + PI) + 1.0) / 2.0; // Adding PI for 180 degrees phase shift brightness2 = brightness2 * 0.4 + 0.2; int analogValue2 = int(brightness2 * 255); analogWrite(ledPin2, analogValue2); } } Same Humidifier board as the creator was used, while I was on ALI I piked up a few more inexpensive Arduino Nanos. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805515889671.html

  • Tree of Life Napkin Holder

    Monday 11 September 2023

    3 photos

    This one is right up my Wife's alley being Pagan/Wiccan. I've been doing a lot of multi-material/color printing on the Bambu the past few days. Getting used to Bambu Studio's really neat color painting feature. Makes it VERY easy to make a single piece model into a multi-material/color print. The base and ring is just simple black PLA and the tree is an unfinished/unpainted wood fill PLA.

  • Hoot Hoot

    Saturday 9 September 2023

    2 photos

    A fun goof off multi-color print on the Bambu. Hoot Hoot.

  • Filament Rack

    Tuesday 29 August 2023

    3 photos

    A Design I found on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2294603 With just a few modifications. I combined two of the sides to give me a "double stack" piece. With the center ones I just quickly used a drill press to drill through the vertical holes to allow a full length dowel to go through for additional rigidity. The upright dowels were cut to 7 and 3/4". That just happened to be the length of a piece i had handy that still gave me clearance to add/remove a spool. With wood being so expensive these days (each 4 foot dowel was $3.67 USD each!) every bit of scrap used helps. The whole thing is just held together with hot-glue, weight of the spools, luck and some spit. ;-) I chose wood over ECT since it was handy, easy to cut with out having to get a conduit cutter or burning through more cutting disks on the Dremel or whacking away at it with a hack-saw. I'm getting too old for that these days, lol. I plan on adding some roller casters to the bottom, either with a simple flat wood piece or continuing the design with a couple more modified brackets. We'll see what kind of mood I'm in. With the wheels I can move the rack(s) around the shop where I need them and keep them out of the way. AND, less holes in the walls and more wall space for displaying prints! My filament stocks are getting low, I had JUST enough room to fit my spools with the expception of the four currently in the Bambu AMS. Gotta get more, replenish the mostly empty spools and of course, build another rack! Unfortunately, this is about a $65 to $70 project with the freaking price of wood these days. Considering 5 feet of 3/4" metal conduit that the original design called for is $7 a pop. The other option and most likely the cheapest would be 3/4" PVC at around $5 for 10 feet. You could get away with 8 of them, cut 'em in half. You'd get a slightly bigger rack too.

  • LED Vine Light

    Sunday 30 July 2023

    3 photos